Public Syndication

A stereo/binaural tactical headset: part two

So a few weeks back, a couple of tactical headsets turned up ordered from Amazon. When I tested them out, the first thing I found was the speaker audio, whilst okay for speech, was very tinny. I wanted a headset that I could tolerate wearing for horse endurance ride events where I often need to juggle a notepad, radio and maybe a tablet or keyboard. A headset works well for this. Also, if there’s a rain event and you’re under a canvas roof, hearing the radio can be a real challenge!

At the same time I wanted to be able to hear ambient noises, so I needed something that didn’t completely enclose me off. If IRoQ ever starts up again, I might be re-thinking this but for now, this is what I’m doing.

The two I bought are “bowman”-style headsets, which are normally mono. I wanted a stereo headset, so bought two, figuring they’re modular enough that I should be able to cobble them into one. I didn’t expect to have to do surgery on them, but there you go. I dug through my junk box, and found an old computer headset that was minus its microphone with 30mm drivers in it and foam ear pads. Pretty cheap set that you can probably buy at a corner-store computer shop for no more than about $15.

As a test, I grabbed the dissected headset from the previous post, and heated up the soldering iron. I de-soldered the original speaker, grabbed a speaker from this computer headset, de-soldered it from its original cabling and tacked the two wires from the bowman headset to it. I then grabbed my Alinco set and tried a little listening. BIG improvement! No, not audiophile-grade, but not crappy telephone grade either!

The speaker out of the computer headset was glued to a piece of plastic that clipped to the earcup and provided a surface for the foam padding to stretch over. As such, it didn’t quite “fit” in the space of the old one — so I trimmed the plastic back a bit and found I could jam it in there quite snugly. I then just needed something to “hold” it there. Anyway, proof of concept done, time to attack the second victim.

I tore open the second bowman headset I had, and fired up the soldering iron to liberate its speaker. It’s a similar (but not identical) one to the other headset. Also, the foam spacer is a different shape — I guess they just grab whatever is laying around the workshop. (sounds familiar!)

The one on the left was pulled out of the second headset this morning. The one on the right is from the previous teardown.

I grabbed the other speaker from the computer headset, tacked it onto the wires and tested — it too sounded a lot better. A little trimming, and it was ready for permanent installation.

Now, if I just wanted mono headsets, I could have left it there, but I wanted one stereo one. The U94 connector does have enough conductors to support this if I common the microphone and speakers, but there’s already civilian and military “standards” for these things, I don’t need to muddy the waters further with a custom one! For now I thought I’ll use my DIN-5 connector standard for this. So rummaged through the junk box, found a DIN-5 plug and socket. I also grabbed a length of CAT5 cable (solid-core, although stranded would have been better).

I de-soldered the U94 cables from both headsets, stripped the jacket off the CAT5, and separated two pairs for each side. To each headset, I soldered two of the four pairs: left side – blue/white blue to speaker, brown/white brown to microphone; right side – orange/white orange to speaker, green/white green to microphone. I then soldered the other ends to my DIN-5 plug — paralleling the two microphone connections so that I could choose which side I used the microphone on. (Or even put one microphone on each side — this does work although it looks damn silly!)

I wired up the DIN-5 socket to one of the U94 cables, bridging left/right channels. My standard actually uses electret microphones, and I suspect these headsets use dynamic microphones. When I plugged in the headset into my tablet — the microphone was not detected, so I’d say the tablet was expecting a 2kOhm electret not a 900ohm dynamic. But, plugging everything into the PTT cable for the Alinco, it all works — and sounds a lot better.

I finished up by fabricating new pieces of plastic to hold the speakers in — an old 2L milk bottle gave up some PET plastic for the job. I cut an oval-shaped piece with a hole in the centre for the speaker’s sound, and glued that over the speaker. I note the plastic now covers the openings that I was supposed to hear through, but the impact is minimal.

I still need to do something better for cable retention, but I’ll think of something. Maybe hot glue…

The two new speakers installed.

For the headband, I ditched the top-band and just used the two elastic straps — one across the front, one around the back. I find this works well — although the headsets are designed to use a single elastic strap, I suspect the strap was designed with smaller heads in mind (often the way with Made-in-China stuff) — I found it got a tad uncomfortable after a couple of hours.

Mostly Finished headset.

With the two straps on this “stereo” set, it’s a lot more balanced and comfortable. Plus, the speakers being of higher quality, listening comfort is improved — a big plus given horse ride events can go 24 hours, and I’ll likely be there operating for that entire period.

I’ll have to source an alternate 5-pin connector for these — being dynamic microphones, compatibility with devices that expect electret microphones is not a given. Maybe I need to use 120° 5-pin DINs or something. Something other than a U94 or a standard DIN-5, because this is stereo (unlike normal U94 headsets) and uses a dynamic microphone (unlike my other headsets).

FT5DR repeater database for Australia

I’ve just finished inserting all of the country’s repeaters into my FT5DR and have taken a dump of the memory to save others the trouble should they need it. This is based on the WIA’s Repeater Directory, dated 2022-08-07, and includes all 2m and 70cm FM and C4FM repeaters.

How was this organised

The WIA publish their repeater directory on a regular basis from their website in both CSV and PDF formats. Using this information, I coded up a Python script that re-organised the CSV version of the repeater directory into a linear string of repeaters to be loaded into the radio.

You can find the script on Github. In this case, I tweaked the script settings to exclude all repeaters other than 2m/70cm repeaters using FM or C4FM, as these are the only repeaters useful to FT5DR users. The script uses the GPS co-ordinates (or failing that, the nearest town) to group the repeaters into “sectors”. The sectors are divided by the heading from Alice Springs, and the distance.

The script then orders these “sectors”: iterating first by distance, then heading. The result is a list of repeaters where the repeaters are roughly “grouped” by their geographical position.

Here’s hoping this will work out. It’s an experiment on my part, in the past I’ve ordered repeaters by frequency (mostly on channel-constrained radios like the Wouxun KG-UVD1P), and by call-sign. This is the first time I’ve tried using positional information to group repeaters. I suspect it’ll need fine-tuning long-term, but let’s see how this goes.

How was the file created

By hand, through the radio keypad. I then told it to save the memory to the MicroSDHC card. Yes, Yaesu make a piece of software to let you edit this on your computer, if your computer runs Microsoft Windows. I don’t, so I did it the hard and slow way.

I am working on getting CHIRP to support the FT5DR, to save ourselves some trouble in the future.

Errata from the repeater database

There are some notes about this repeater database which are potential gotchas:

  • VK3RNB “CBD Melbourne” repeater at 438 550kHz is shown with a repeater input of 431 555 kHz which equates to an offset of -6995kHz, this is recorded as -7000kHz since the FT5DR does not support -6995kHz offsets.
  • VK5RSC “Mt. Terrible” repeater on input frequency 147 675kHz actually outputs on the 10m band at 29 620 kHz — as the FT5DR cannot receive 10m FM, this is recorded as a simplex frequency.

How to load

NOTICE: You do this at your own risk. I accept no responsibility for any damage that may occur to the radio loading files from this site, nor any legal action that may arise as a result of using the repeater data supplied from this site.

  1. Download and unpack the ZIP file.
  2. Insert a FAT32-formatted MicroSDHC card, 32GiB or smaller into your computer’s SD card slot and mount it.
  3. Create a directory named FT5D_MEMORY-CH in the root of the SD card
  4. Copy MEMORY.dat to this newly created directory
  5. Unmount the MicroSDHC card
  6. Power your radio off if it’s turned on, then insert the MicroSDHC card into the radio’s MicroSDHC slot (right-hand side — contacts face the front)
  7. Power on the radio
  8. Hold F Menu for 3 seconds
  9. Tap SD Card on the touchscreen
  10. Use the channel knob up the top of the radio to highlight 2 MEMORY CH
  11. Press F Menu
  12. Use the channel knob up the top of the radio to highlight 2 Read from SD
  13. Press F-Menu
  14. The radio will ask “READ?“, tap OK on the screen twice.
  15. The radio should read the file, then do a reset. When it boots back up, you should find the repeater database is loaded.

A stereo/binaural tactical headset

One thing I hate doing when I’m taking down notes at a radio comms event is juggling a hand-microphone and pen/paper/tablet/computer simultaneously. So I tend to prefer a headset for my radios rather than a hand-microphone. Some models (especially Kenwood) have lots of selections available, but some are very much restricted. In particular, I prefer a binaural headset as I find it more difficult to hear a voice on one side than via both sides — particularly in noisy conditions. The only options I could find for Yaesu/Alinco sets were big chunky earmuff headsets — great in those noisy situations, but not so great if you need situational awareness.

The plan thus is to cobble together my own binaural tactical headset. Stereo using my standard headset connection, so I can re-use it elsewhere.

I did have a Kenwood TH-D72A — a good solid performer… but sadly no longer manufactured (neither is its successor, not that Kenwood ever sold that here), and my particular specimen now refuses to have anything to do with the internal battery. I bought an Alinco DJ-G7T as a back-up hand-held for pure voice comms, and more recently a Yaesu FT5DR. I had made my own Kenwood headset adaptor to use with my headsets, but I had nothing equivalent for the Alinco or Yaesu sets.

As it happens, the headset pin-out of the Alinco is nearly identical to that of the earlier Yaesu VX-6/VX-7: 3.5mm threaded TRRS. Both radios put the speaker on the tip, microphone+PTT (in series) on the sleeve-most ring and 0V on the sleeve. Alinco use the tip-most ring for a 3.3V rail, whereas Yaesu use this same ring for a data/clone connection. Maybe it’s a UART which “idles” at 3.3V on Yaesu rigs, but I wouldn’t bet on all Yaesu accessories working on Alinco and vice-versa — however headsets rarely need a 3.3V rail. (Maybe the VOX ones do… not sure.)

The FT5DR is actually compatible with the earlier VX-6/VX-7, however the connector is on the side of the radio, and while the threaded 3.5mm connectors fit, they stick out the side like a sore thumb: a right-angled 3.5mm TRRS is a better “fit”.

Luckily, Amazon have quite a few options that convert these radios to a U94 “Nexus” military-style connector. I managed to pick up a U94 adaptor that works quite well with the Alinco, and does work with the Yaesu (although is mechanically not optimal due to the “straight” style of the plug and side-mounting of the socket).

Tactical headsets come in a few varieties:

  • ear-tube covert-style headsets
  • D-loop style
  • throat-mic headsets
  • “bowman”-style headband headsets
  • earmuff-style headsets
  • motorcycle headsets

The only ones of this list that are binaural out-of-the-box are the earmuff headsets and the motorcycle headsets. I figured I’d pick up a couple of cheap “bowman”-style ones and see if I can cobble two mono headsets into one stereo set. I looked around, and bought two of these.

The adaptor turned up a week or so ago, and the headsets turned up today. There’s two different varieties of pin-out for the U94 connector — the “NATO” standard interleaves the speaker and microphone pins, whereas the “civilian” standard puts the speaker on the sleeve/sleeve-most ring and microphone on the tip-most ring/tip. Both adaptor and headset turned out to be “civilian” standard, so the first hurdle was cleared.

I tested both headsets and confirmed they both worked. I tried the headsets both with voice comms, then tried tuning to a local FM broadcast station to assess audio quality. They work, but audio quality is not what I’d call wonderful. Very tinny, fine for voice comms, but maybe telephone quality at best. Ookay, so using these as a stereo headset can be done — but if I wanted to use them for anything but straight voice comms, I’d want to swap the speakers out for something decent. Tear-down time!

I picked a “victim” and attempted to disassemble it. These units appear to be glued together, so you wind up partially destroying them to get at the speaker:

The speaker is a conventional 8ohm 500mW jobbie, nothing remarkable… and a frequency response that’s truly awful for anything other than voice comms. Fine for the intended task, but as I say, not really sufficient for what I was after.

I’ll see if I can swap this speaker out with one liberated from some headphones and see about replacing the strip of plastic I had to unceremoniously and destructively rip out — this shouldn’t be a difficult job. The other thing that might help is some sound-damping material behind the speaker, which might account for some tinniness.

If I get this headset working acceptably, I’ll do the same mod to the other, then can look at wiring the two together into a stereo set using a DIN-5 matching my other headsets. I can then re-purpose the U94 plug to make an adaptor to convert my other headsets to use with the U94 adaptors.

My thoughts on Twitter

Musk is now bitter
because Twitter is in the shitter.
He’s turned his cash to litter,
and now he wants an arse kisser.

— Stuart Longland (first posted on Ars Technica)

That pretty much sums my thoughts up… about where they’re headed. Elon Musk has been in the news a lot following his purchase of the social media network, Twitter… firing critical staff by mistake… then expecting everyone else left behind to work long hours at high intensity. Effectively, he’s wanting people who are sycophantic enough to put up with the toxic environment they’re now faced with.

Apparently the recent ultimatum delivered to his staff saw nearly half of them walk away with immediate effect… and the latest is he’s demanding screenshots of code to understand how it works.

My guess is there’s likely more code than will fit on a single screen that is critical to Twitter’s operations. In some cases, entire teams responsible for critical functions have left — there’s no one left that could meaningfully explain the components those teams were responsible for. It’s also not like a social media network operates the same as a satellite network or electric vehicle. Completely different animal.

I personally have not touched Twitter … in fact my thoughts on these services have been known for some time. Services like this which are run by individual companies are akin to putting all your eggs in one basket, and as you don’t own the basket, you’ve got no way to defend it! It’s one of the reasons why I’ve stuck to running a blog rather than running over to the walled garden that is Facebook. I’m one of the few in my company that won’t touch these commercial social networks, and I’m not about to change things now.

One thing that particularly irked me is when our state government decides to “announce” things on Twitter, but then doesn’t immediately update their website. I don’t consider Twitter an authoritative source — blue tick or not! As far as I’m concerned, if say, Queensland Health haven’t published a change in COVID-19 rules on a publicly reachable page on a host in the qld.gov.au domain, I do not consider it legitimate.

Would I consider an alternative like Mastodon? Maybe… it can be self-hosted, so I could have my instance right here and you’d be able to follow what I do… but my posts tend to be big and sporadic: not the sort of thing that fits in a tweet or toot. There are times I share links to articles or amusing photos, maybe Mastodon could serve that purpose better than the blog here.

I guess time will tell. One thing is certain though, I’m glad I didn’t bother with Twitter — if I left it to them to keep my history online, it’d be all gone now following the chaotic take-over they’ve had. Also, no way in hell I’d go work for any of Elon Musk’s enterprises. As an Asperger’s person myself, I’d rather work for somebody who doesn’t use his condition as an excuse for bad behaviour.

Yaesu FT5DR: First thoughts

I had a sad day the other day… the old faithful, my Kenwood TH-D72A finally bit the dust. It had been limping along ever since vibration damaged the barrel jack DC connector… I hacked up my own fix and got it going again, and it seemed mostly reliable and that kept it going for a few years… but in the recent downpours, it seems the battery management circuit died. Wouldn’t charge (just reports “Charge Error”) and wouldn’t run off a charged battery.

So… time for a new one. Kenwood basically no longer exist as a manufacturer of radio equipment now — they refused to sell the successor here in Australia and basically have abandoned us. Thus, it’s time for me to move on.

I had a look at a few options, a big issue is the chip shortage has greatly reduced the options available. I mainly use the Kenwood for APRS, it’s nice that it can function as a full-blown AX.25 TNC too, but by far, the feature I use more is APRS. Icom basically only care about D-Star and its DPRS equivalent. There are some DMR-based radios that do what they call “analog APRS” — whatever that is. The mode that gets used in SE Queensland is 1200 baud AFSK: aka Bell 203 modulation. Not the most reliable, and in many ways a dodgy hack, but that’s what everyone else uses. I wound up buying another Yaesu, the FT5DR. In fact, I bought two, just in case my father’s Kenwood bites the dust.

I haven’t put it through its full paces yet, but last night charged the units up, and this morning had mine running just beaconing on APRS and monitoring a local repeater.

General comments

The unit is reasonably lightweight… bright clear screen, the audio isn’t too shabby for something its size. I haven’t tried the C4FM mode yet but FM and WFM reception seemed decent. It’ll even begrudgingly receive AM broadcast — including with a 9kHz offset (unlike my Alinco set), although sensitivity is not great.

Text entry quirks

Set-up wasn’t too difficult, it prompts for a call-sign, which you enter from the touchscreen. Text entry is a little inconsistent, and very reminiscent of late 90s mobile phones: there’s no predictive text and the letters are layed out like they would be on a telephone keypad. To type a Z for instance, you’d look for a button labelled wxyz and hit it 8 times if you want capital Z, or 4 for lower-case. Frustrating if you miss and have to cycle around again. Sometimes touching a different button advances the pointer, sometimes not and it just overwrites the current character.

Repeater settings somewhat buried

The handbook does not discuss repeater settings much at all… which is odd since hand-held radios are not known for their DX range unless you’re up high.

To set up CTCSS, one must hit F-Menu, tap SQTYP, then use the channel knob to select TONE and hit PTT, then hit F-Menu again, go to CODE, and use the same knob to select a CTCSS frequency.

To change a repeater offset, one must long-press the F-Menu, tap CONFIG, then use the knob to scroll down to 15. RPT SHIFT, hit F-Menu, then use the channel knob to select between -, SIMPLEX or + and using PTT to confirm.

I’d have made these a simple toggle from the F-Menu options, but sadly, no.

Bluetooth still useless

I tried Bluetooth on a radio back with the VX-8DR. There, I found it was an incompatible mess… might work great if you buy Yaesu’s headset, but the whole point of Bluetooth is to be interoperable with other Bluetooth headsets which may be in a more suitable form-factor for your use case.

I tried the FT5DR with two headsets, a Behringer BB 560M, and a Logitech Zone Wireless. It could see the Behringer, but would not connect. It flatly refused to even recognise the Zone Wireless.

GPS and APRS working quite well

I’m yet to go mobile with this, but it soon found my position and getting the radio beaconing was not difficult. It lacks some niceties of the Kenwood set (e.g. reporting the frequency of the other band), and sadly no digipeating, but it otherwise is a capable APRS implementation.

SD Card support welcome

This radio can take a MicroSD card for various things, including settings back-up and restore, GPS logging, audio recordings, and even storing pictures if you buy the camera microphone option (I didn’t).

I put a few memory channels into the radio then told it to back-up to the SD card… apparently Yaesu’s own desktop software can read/write these files if you have a Windows PC handy (I don’t). That said, the format doesn’t look complex:

RC=0 stuartl@rikishi /media/sdb1/FT5D_MEMORY-CH $ hexdump -C MEMORY.dat 
00000000  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |................|
*
000012c0  03 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
000012d0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
*
00001350  00 00 00 00 00 03 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00001360  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
*
00001380  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 03  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00001390  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
*
000013b0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 03 00 00 00 00 03 00  |................|
000013c0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
*
000016a0  00 00 00 00 00 00 03 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
000016b0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
*
00001710  00 00 00 00 03 03 03 03  03 03 03 03 03 03 03 03  |................|
00001720  03 03 03 03 03 03 03 03  03 03 03 03 03 03 03 03  |................|
*
00001800  02 00 14 50 00 d0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...P............|
00001810  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 0c 00 0d 80 18  |................|
00001820  02 00 14 55 20 00 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...U ...........|
00001830  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001840  02 00 14 55 20 40 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...U @..........|
00001850  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001860  02 00 14 55 20 80 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...U ...........|
00001870  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001880  43 07 43 55 00 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CU............|
00001890  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
000018a0  43 07 43 55 00 00 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CU............|
000018b0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
000018c0  43 07 43 55 00 40 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CU.@..........|
000018d0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
000018e0  43 07 43 55 00 80 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CU............|
000018f0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
00001900  02 00 14 55 20 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...U ...........|
00001910  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001920  02 00 14 55 20 00 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...U ...........|
00001930  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001940  02 00 14 55 20 40 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...U @..........|
00001950  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001960  02 00 14 55 20 80 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...U ...........|
00001970  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001980  43 07 43 55 00 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CU............|
00001990  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
000019a0  43 07 43 55 00 00 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CU............|
000019b0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
000019c0  43 07 43 55 00 40 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CU.@..........|
000019d0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
000019e0  43 07 43 55 00 80 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CU............|
000019f0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
00001a00  02 00 14 55 20 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...U ...........|
00001a10  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001a20  43 07 43 45 00 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CE............|
00001a30  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
00001a40  43 07 43 45 00 c2 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CE............|
00001a50  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
00001a60  43 07 43 45 00 c3 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CE............|
00001a70  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
00001a80  02 00 14 55 20 e0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...U ...........|
00001a90  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001aa0  43 07 43 45 00 e0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CE............|
00001ab0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
00001ac0  02 00 14 48 40 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...H@...........|
00001ad0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001ae0  43 07 43 55 00 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CU............|
00001af0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
00001b00  07 00 05 25 00 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...%............|
00001b10  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 00 00 0c 00 0d 00 18  |................|
00001b20  02 00 14 55 20 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...U ...........|
00001b30  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001b40  07 06 22 25 00 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |.."%............|
00001b50  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 00 00 0c 00 0d 00 18  |................|
00001b60  07 04 85 99 00 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |................|
00001b70  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 00 00 0c 00 0d 00 18  |................|
00001b80  02 00 14 55 20 e0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...U ...........|
00001b90  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001ba0  43 07 43 55 00 e0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CU............|
00001bb0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
00001bc0  02 00 14 57 20 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...W ...........|
00001bd0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001be0  07 00 05 20 20 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...  ...........|
00001bf0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 00 00 0c 00 0d 00 18  |................|
00001c00  02 00 14 50 20 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...P ...........|
00001c10  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001c20  03 00 43 50 20 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |..CP ...........|
00001c30  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
00001c40  07 04 85 99 00 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |................|
00001c50  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 00 00 0c 00 0d 00 18  |................|
00001c60  02 00 14 50 20 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...P ...........|
00001c70  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001c80  43 07 43 50 20 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CP ...........|
00001c90  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
00001ca0  02 00 14 55 50 60 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |...UP`..........|
00001cb0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |................|
00001cc0  43 07 43 56 00 c0 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |C.CV............|
00001cd0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 08 00 0d 00 08  |.........P......|
00001ce0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |................|
*
00002aa0  02 10 14 68 75 c1 00 00  34 44 42 20 52 65 64 6c  |...hu...4DB Redl|
00002ab0  61 6e 64 73 20 32 6d ff  00 06 00 09 00 0d 00 18  |ands 2m.........|
00002ac0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |................|
*
000030e0  03 17 43 82 00 c1 00 00  34 5a 42 20 42 72 69 73  |..C.....4ZB Bris|
000030f0  62 61 6e 65 20 37 30 63  00 50 00 09 00 0d 00 18  |bane 70c.P......|
00003100  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |................|
*
00003720  02 00 14 75 00 c0 00 00  57 49 43 45 4e 20 32 6d  |...u....WICEN 2m|
00003730  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 09 00 0d 00 18  |................|
00003740  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |................|
*
000037c0  03 07 43 95 00 d0 00 00  55 48 46 20 53 69 6d 70  |..C.....UHF Simp|
000037d0  6c 65 78 ff ff ff ff ff  00 50 00 0c 00 0d 80 18  |lex......P......|
000037e0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |................|
*
000094c0  02 00 14 51 75 d0 00 00  41 50 52 53 20 32 6d ff  |...Qu...APRS 2m.|
000094d0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  00 06 00 0c 00 0d 80 18  |................|
000094e0  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |................|
*
0000a180  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
*
0000a240  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |................|
0000a250  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff  |................|
*
0000a280  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
*
0000ab10  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 99 42 8b 00 00 00 00  |..........B.....|
0000ab20  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
*
0000ac80

That’s a complete hex dump of the memory back-up… I can see each memory channel is 32 bytes, and the frequency in kHz is given in BCD format:

000030e0  03 17 43 82 00 c1 00 00  34 5a 42 20 42 72 69 73  |..C.....4ZB Bris|
000030f0  62 61 6e 65 20 37 30 63  00 50 00 09 00 0d 00 18  |bane 70c.P......|

That’s the Mt. Coot-tha WICEN repeater VK4RZB (which I’ve labelled as “4ZB Brisbane 70c“); 438.200MHz, 91.5Hz CTCSS, negative 5MHz offset. I put it at memory location 200. I’m not sure how 12.5kHz offsets are encoded… maybe I might try programming some more in when I get time and see what they look like, but even that might be enough to “generate” a file with the repeaters I want. We’ll see.

A building-block for DIY Bluetooth audio devices

I’m a late adopter of Bluetooth, having previously tried Bluetooth in its earlier days, hearing something that sounded like my music was being fed down a drain pipe, and deciding that Bluetooth was rubbish… it wasn’t until I bought a Logitech H830 headset that I found that Bluetooth can actually sound decent… moreover when I bought the Logitech Zone Wireless, that bi-directional Bluetooth can also sound decent.

Now, the Zone Wireless is fine if I’m in the office, or out walking somewhere. It’ll fit underneath the coolie hat if I decide to wear that, otherwise it works with a cap just fine. BUT, if I’m camping or at a WICEN event, I’m often wearing a full-brim hard hat. The headband on the Zone Wireless is a problem.

I really wanted a Bluetooth device that could be put on a lanyard, and I just plug in a regular common-garden variety wired headset. The closest I can get to this is a motorcycle headset — as these have to accommodate a wide variety of helmet styles, the radio module and the headset are actually separate components, and so conceivably, I can make my own compatible adaptor to plug in. Then, it wouldn’t matter… want to wear the hard hat? No problem, I already have modded earmuffs with a headset. Want to use it on the bike? Sure, plug the helmet straight in. Or am I in the office again? No problem, normal headset.

It’d also be nice to share that wired headset with a wired audio device… prime example here is a radio transceiver. Yes, there are devices that will make those do Bluetooth… and there are radios that have Bluetooth. I had one of the latter: Yaesu VX8-DR … it’s Bluetooth was next to useless… idiosyncratic and unreliable.

I see the Sena SR-10 mentioned in a few places as a way to “Bluetooth-enable” a two-way radio… but aside from being pricey, I see three complaints being raised: unreliable/slow pairing, intermittent darlek-like distortion on transmit and a noticeable connection delay on incoming signals.

I pondered doing my own… and I’ve slowly amassed parts to do exactly that. But, the other day, I stumbled on another option: Altronics sell a CSR8635 Bluetooth module. This advertises the ability to talk to two Bluetooth devices, and wideband voice. CSR’s own datasheet seems to give some hints as to how it can be used.

One catch, is the pads on this device are a 1mm spacing — so mounting this on some perfboard is going to be a big challenge. I prefer the minimalism of a module like this over a Raspberry Pi Zero W… a lot less to go wrong, and likely much better battery life.

Extreme Drainage Coverall: Wet weather tests

So… after sitting around for close to 6 months, finally got some decent wet weather to try this gear out in anger. I’d have tried the rain suit in colder weather, but COVID-19 intervened. Wet weather has also seen the state forest at Imbil closed which has meant WICEN hasn’t been doing comms exercises up there. Thus despite receiving the suit a while back, I haven’t had a real opportunity to use it.

We had some pretty heavy rain over this weekend just gone… not “extreme” by any stretch, not like earlier this year where we had over a metre of rain dumped on us in the space of 3 days… but still moderately heavy. I thought worth getting out for the occasion.

It’s worth noting in wet weather gear there’s two schools of thought; one is going light-weight, accepting that weather will seep through, but hopefully your body heat will stop you from getting completely saturated. The other is going heavy-weight, accepting you’ll sweat, but since you haven’t got rain soaking you right through, you’ll at least stay warm.

Hood adjustments

One thing I note with this suit is when you put it on, like with smocks and hooded pull-overs; the hood is automatically on. Furthermore, the opening on this hood at its loosest setting, doesn’t easily pull over your head.

If your head is bare, you can get the hood up and down without too much trouble, but put a cap on and you may have difficulty. I find if I put my full-face mask on (masks are needed for COVID-19 in some situations in SE QLD), I cannot pull the hood off. Similarly, you’re in for a fight if you have a headset on underneath. Given this, I’ve basically come to accept with this outfit: the hood stays up, don’t bother putting it down.

The hood cord exits externally at two points that are set about 6cm apart — this would make sense on a conventional zip-up jacket, but on this sort of outfit, it’s a bit unnatural feeling, so I figured I’d re-locate where the ends of the hood cord exit. Furthermore, to avoid the hood cord getting tangled, I decided to put it internal. To do this, I first removed the toggles, then I used some needle-nose pliers to pierce a small hole either side of a seam on the inside of the hood directly under the chin, then used those same pliers to pull each end of that cord through the new holes.

Then to finish off, I fed both ends of the hood cord through one of the toggles and tied a knot at the very end to prevent the toggle from being pulled off accidentally. This results in an adjustment that feels a lot more like the pull-over hooded jumpers when done up and I find is more comfortable.

I can then pre-set an adjustment by adjusting the toggle and doing a simple half-loop knot which can be easily undone.

Re-locating the exit points of the hood cord to the inside makes things a little more comfortable.

I’ve adjusted the hood for comfort when wearing a helmet for cycling — set the way it is, I’m unable to take the hood off without unzipping and reaching underneath, undoing a knot and loosening the toggle, but it means when I put my helmet on I can pull the hood back to a point where it doesn’t block my periphery vision then slide the helmet on comfortably. When not wearing a helmet or hard hat, the setting there allows me to look around if I wear a cap underneath.

Friday 2022-10-21

Had to go get some dinner, so I threw the suit on, put my helmet on and jumped on the bike for the ~5km round-trip. I suppose this was around 5:30PM or so. Rain was falling moderately at the time… I stayed quite comfortable. Okay, breathability is going to be a problem with something this heavy, and I did perspire, but I didn’t feel hot. I got home with my clothes soaked with sweat, but was not cold from rain saturation.

One bonus with the boots is there was nothing to tangle with the gear train, a common problem with other forms of clothing. The suit I have has steel-capped boots fitted (you can buy them without) and these were quite comfortable to be cycling in.

Situational awareness wasn’t impeded… I could sit the hood far enough back to not block my vision, and while it did muffle sound a little, I could hear what was going on well enough.

Saturday 2022-10-22

The next morning I needed some bread; and so a longer bike ride out to Ashgrove was the answer. Conditions were overcast with intermittent showers. Given how sweaty I got, I decided since the suit covers the whole body and is opaque, I’d keep clothing underneath to the minimum (basically just underwear). In the past I’ve done this and it’s worked quite well.

With minimal clothing underneath, sweat tends to pool rather than soaking through. I was expecting a lot more rain than we actually got that day… I think with heavier conditions, things would be more pleasant but I was noticeably warmer on this occasion. By the time I got to Ashgrove, I could feel the sweat in the gloves and boots.

But here’s one plus side: when I got to my destination, okay I’m walking around with the sweat sloshing around… in the past with previous rain suits and warmer conditions, I’d reach out for something, and sweat would trickle down the sleeve and on to whatever I was reaching for. Similarly, sweat might drip down the legs onto the floor. Not very hygienic for everyone else sharing the space.

Having the gloves there meant that’s where the sweat stopped: it ran down into the glove and stayed there, it did not spill out onto whatever I was grabbing.

I rode home, and as I got towards home, I made a pit-stop at Walton Bridge to get a drink of water, as I was basically still in the sauna and needed to replace fluids I was losing… but otherwise things weren’t too bad.

Sunday 2022-10-23

I needed to do a milk run, and once again, it was predicted to be very wet. At one stage the BoM (sorry, the name “The Bureau” is already taken) were predicting 80-120mm that day. It’s not far so I walked it on this occasion.

Things were still damp from yesterday, but not uncomfortable. I threw some clothes on underneath that I didn’t mind getting soaked, grabbed my bag and went for a walk.

Aside from a comment that I apparently looked like something from “breaking bad” (some television show I think… I know nothing about it), there were no issues.

Airing things out

One downside of this suit is the almost-full-enclosure nature of it means it takes a lot longer to air out. Particularly the boots: it can take 3-5 days to properly dry things out if you had water sloshing around down there. I note Mikko is offering Opalo gear with polar fleece now, but given this fact, and the fact you’ll build up a big sweat if the temperature is even remotely warm… this would not be a good idea in the SE Queensland climate. (It may work further south though.)

Verdict

Would I recommend them? If you deal with heavy rain or crappy weather a lot, definitely they’re worth a look. I’m yet to try them out in colder weather, but if the rain’s falling moderately heavily (i.e. in the region of >10mm/hr), they’re good. I think you’d overheat wearing them in sun-shower situations.

That said, there’s the possibility of getting something similar made in a lighter-weight fabric. I found my regular rain coat (which I often wear in colder weather) is starting to look a bit tatty, so I’ve ordered an extreme two-tone smock, but I’ll be getting it made in lighter-weight Plavitex material with a view to this being something I can wear when going out in cold/wet conditions. I suspect this will turn up around December/January; still in time to try it out in the warmer and damp summer we’re predicted to have this year.

Boomer Boom Box: The Locals

It’s been a while since I last looked at this, basically, real life intervened… but let’s have a look at some local artists… that is, Australia and New Zealand. Bear in mind links can break — stores can withdraw options from sale (or the record companies can ask them to withdraw it), so it’s possible I can post links then have the rug pulled out from underneath me by the supplier.

Of course, if you know an alternate source (that is of new copies, not second-hand), do drop me a line and let me know.

The following are some artists with 10 or more significant tracks that I’ve been able to locate copies of so far.

Bee Gees

This was a very successful group that hails from the Redcliffe area of greater Brisbane, and of course 4KQ featured them very strongly over the decades.

Ultimate Bee Gees

A great start for this band would be the Ultimate Bee Gees compilation. It’s got nearly all of the hits they’re famous for, including their later stuff.

Timeless – The All-Time Greatest Hits

This was actually the first CD of theirs I bought… and it does do pretty well, but it misses Alone and some of their earlier work. BUT, as a budget-conscious option, definitely worth a look!

Other albums worth considering

The above will get you most of the tracks they’re known for… some other options worth considering:

  • Best Of Bee Gees (Vol. 2): includes I.O.I.O and My World — on Z-Digital
  • Mr. Natural: for its title track — on Z-Digital
  • To Whom It May Concern: for the song Road To Alaska — on Z-Digital
  • Life In A Tin Can: for the song Saw A New Morning — on Z-Digital

Daryl Braithwaite

The lead singer of Sherbet.

The Essential Daryl Braithwaite

If you’re looking for Daryl’s work from the 80s onwards, this is worth getting.

Dragon

From the other side of the ditch, Dragon are a great export out of New Zealand.

The Very Best Of Dragon

There are a few compilations out there, but this one is by far the better of the lot. The only song it misses out on in my opinion is Cry (for that, look for Body and The Beat, Cuts From The Tough Times or Snake Eyes on the Paradise: Greatest Hits). Pretty much everything else they’re known for is here.

  • Sanity (seems to be out-of-stock at the time of writing)

John Paul Young

A big name from the Countdown era.

I Hate the Music

This is a compilation of all his significant work over the 40 years or so he’s been releasing music.

Little River Band

The Definitive Collection

Most of the work done by this group from its early beginnings up to the 80s before John Farnham went solo.

Monsoon

This was where Glen Shorrock made his come-back… and is where you’ll find Love Is A Bridge.

(Upcoming) Masterpieces

This isn’t out yet, but it may be worth a look when it is released. It includes No Reins On Me, which does not appear on the other albums.

Skyhooks

Nearly everything from this iconic Melbourne band can be found on two albums.

Hits’n’Riffs

This has most of their hits.

Ego Is Not A Dirty Word

Features the song Love On The Radio.

HTML Email ought to be considered harmful: auDA shows us why

I’m the owner of two domain licenses, longlandclan.id.au and vk4msl.id.au, both purchased for personal use. The former I share with other family members where as the latter I use for my own use. Consequently, I’m on auDA’s mailing lists and receive the occasional email from them. No big deal. Lately, they’ve been pushing .au domains (i.e. dropping the .id bit out), which I’m not worried about myself, but I can see the appeal for businesses.

Anyway… I practice what I preach with regards to email: I do not send email in HTML format — and my email client is set to receive emails in plain text, not HTML, unless there is no plain-text component. This morning, I received what I consider, a textbook example of why I think HTML email is so bad for the Internet today.

From: .au Domain Administration <noreply@auda.com.au>
Subject: Notice: .au Direct Registration
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2022 23:00:04 +0000
Reply-To: .au Domain Administration <noreply@auda.com.au>
X-Mailer: Mailchimp Mailer - **CID292f65320f63be5c3fcd**

The .au Domain Administration (auDA) recently launched Australia’s newest domain namespace – .au direct.

Dear Stuart Longland,

The .au Domain Administration (https://www.auda.org.au/)  (auDA), recently launched Australia’s newest domain namespace – .au direct. The new namespace provides eligible registrants the option to register domain names directly before the .au for the first time (e.g. forexample.au).

Registrants with an existing .au domain name licence are eligible to apply for a direct match of their .au direct domain name through the Priority Allocation Process (e.g. if you hold forexample.com.au (https://aus01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fforexample.com.au%2F&data=05%7C01%7Cprivate.address%40auda.org.au%7C95a9271d4eff4973013b08da3240a115%7C81810bc45d6845f6ba4e3d6c9fb37e43%7C0%7C0%7C637877550424818538%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=2WhPYMxV3FI9nEpXDEk8KdyJwWGyqcI%2FwRd%2FNc7DQks%3D&reserved=0) , you can apply for Priority Status to register forexample.au). Information about your existing domain name licence is available here:  https://whois.auda.org.au/. The Priority Allocation Process is now open and will close on 20 Sept 2022.

That is the email, as it appeared in my email client (I have censored the unfortunate auDA employee’s email address). I can see what happened:

Someone composed an email (likely in HTML format) that would be part of the marketing campaign they were going to send via MailChimp. The person composing the email for MailChimp clearly is using Microsoft Outlook (or maybe that should be called Microsoft LookOut!). Microsoft’s software saw what it thought was a hyperlink and thought, “I need to ‘protect’ this”, and made it a “safe” link. A link with the user’s email address embedded in it!

Funnily enough, this seems to be the only place where a link was mangled by Microsoft’s mal^H^H^Hsoftware. I think this underscores the importance of verifying that you are indeed sending what you think you are sending — and highlights how difficult HTML (and Microsoft) have made this task.

  1. don’t assume that people will only see the HTML email
  2. don’t assume that what you see in the HTML view is identical to what will be seen in plain text

Might be better to compose the plain text, get that right… then paste that into the HTML view and “make it pretty”… or perhaps don’t bother and just go back to plain-text? KISS principle!