Dec 282020
 

So, a while back I tore apart an old Logitech wireless headset with the intention of using its bits to make a wireless USB audio interface. I was undecided whether the headset circuitry would “live” in a new headset, or whether it’d be a separate unit to which I could attach any headset.

I ended up doing the latter. I found through Mouser a suitable enclosure for the original circuitry and have fitted it with cable glands and sockets for the charger input (which now sports a standard barrel jack) and a DIN-5 connector for the earpiece/microphone connections.

The first thing to do was to get rid of that proprietary power connector. The two outer contacts are the +6V and 0V pins, shown here in orange and white/orange coloured cable respectively. I used a blob of heat-melt glue to secure it so I didn’t rip pads off.

Replacing the power connector. +6V is orange, 0V is orange/white.

The socket is “illuminated” by a LED on the PCB. Maybe I’ll look at some sort of light-pipe arrangement to bring that outside, we’ll see.

The other end, just got wired to a plain barrel jack. Future improvement might be to put a 6V DC-DC converter, allowing me to plug in any old 12V source, but for now, this’ll do. I just have to remember to watch what lead I grab. Whilst I was there, I also put in a cable gland for the audio interface connection.

Power socket and audio connections mounted in case.

One challenge with the board design is that there is not one antenna, but two, plus some rather lumpy tantalum capacitors near the second antenna. I suspect the two antennas are for handling polarisation, which will shift as you move your head and as the signal propagates. Either way, they meant the PCB wouldn’t sit “flat”. No problem, I had some old cardboard boxes which provided the solution:

PCB spacer, with cut-out for high-clearance parts.

The cardboard is a good option since it’s readily available and won’t attenuate the 2.4GHz signal much. It was also easy to work with.

I haven’t exposed the three push-buttons on that side of the PCB at this stage. I suppose drilling a hole and making a small “poker” to hit the buttons isn’t out of the question. This isn’t much different to what Logitech’s original case did. I’ll tackle that later. I need a similar solution for the slide-switch used for power.

One issue I faced was wrangling the now over-length FFC that linked the two sides. Previously, this spanned the headband, but now it only needed to reach a few centimetres at most. Eyeballing the original cable, I found this short replacement. I’ll have to figure out how to mount that floating PCB somehow, but at least it’s a clean solution.

Replacement FFC.

At this point, it was a case of finish wiring everything up. I haven’t tried any audio as yet, that will come in time. It still powers up, sees the transceiver, so there’s still “life” in this.

Powering up post-surgery.

I plugged it into its charger and let it run for a while just to top the LiPo cell.

Charging for the first time since mounting.

One thing I’m not happy with is the angle the battery is sitting at, since it’s just a bit wider than the space between the mounting posts. I might try shaving some material off the posts to see if I can get the battery to sit “flat”. I only need about 1mm, which should still allow enough clearance for the screwdriver and screw to pass the cell safely.

The polarity of the speakers is a guess on my part. Neither end seemed to be grounded, hopefully the drivers don’t mind being “common-ed”, otherwise I might need to cram some small isolation transformers in there.

Nov 042020
 

So, today I was doing some work for my workplace, when a critical 4G modem-router dropped offline, cutting me off. Figuring it was a temporary issue, I thought I’d resume this headset rebuild.

The replacement battery had turned up a few weeks back, a beefy 1000mAh 3.7V LiPo pack intended for Raspberry Pi PiJuice battery supplies. This pack was chosen because it has a similar arrangement to the original Logitech battery: single cell with a 10k thermistor. As a bonus, the pack appears to be at least triple the original cell’s capacity. I just had to wire it up.

The new battery being charged by the headset circuitry

The connectors are not compatible, being both physically different sizes and the thermistor and 0V pins being swapped. Black and Red are the same conventions on both packs, that is, red for +3.7V and black for 0Vā€¦ the thermister connects to the blue wire on the old pack and yellow on the new pack.

I’m at two minds whether to embed the electronics directly into the earmuffs, or whether to just wire the microphone/speaker connections to a DIN-5 connector to make it compatible with my other headsets.

For now at least, the battery is charging, not getting hot, and the circuitry detects the base transceiver when it is plugged into a laptop USB port, so the circuitry is still “functional”.

Aug 082020
 

So, lately I’ve been working from home, which means amongst other things, playing music as loud as I like, not getting distracted by co-workers, and the kettle a short walking distance from my workspace.

Eventually though, I will have to return to the office. For this aim, I’ll need to be able to “drown out” the background noise. Music is good for this, but not everyone is into the same tastes as I am — I am a bit of a music luddite.

Years ago (when the ink was drying on my foundation license) I purchased a Logitech Wireless headset. Model A-00006 (yes, that is quite old now). This headset worked, but it did have two flaws:

  1. the audio isolation wasn’t great, so they tended to “leak” sound
  2. they had the dreaded asymmetric audio sample rate problem with JACK.

Now, for home use I bought a much nicer set which solves issue (2) and isn’t too bad with (1), but I’d like to keep them home. (2) isn’t a problem at work since I don’t generally have the need for the audio routing I use at home. So (2) isn’t going to be a problem.

This headset sat in a box for some years, and over time, the headband and earpads have fallen to bits. The electronics are still good. What if I bought a pair of earmuffs and stuffed the old headset guts inside those? That’d solve issue (1) nicely.

Getting inside

These things didn’t open up without a fight. I found that where the speakers are concerned, you will permanently break the housing. The two sides are joined by a 8-wire ribbon cable. The majority of the electronics is in the right-hand side. The battery is most of the guts of the left side.

You’ll need to destroy the headband to liberate the ribbon cable, and you’ll need to destroy the speakers’ housing to get at the screws behind.

I now have the un-housed headset guts sitting on the table, with the original charger plugged in charging the very flat battery, which is a single-cell 3.7V LiPo pouch cell; no idea what capacity it is, I doubt it’s more than 200mAh.

Charging

I plugged everything back together and tried the headset out. It still works, although instead of indicating a solid amber LED for charging, it was showing a slow blink.

fccid.io has a copy of the original documentation online, as well as photos of the guts here. In that, it did not discuss what a “slow blink” meant, which had me concerned that maybe the battery had been left too long and was no longer safe to charge.

Battery voltage whilst charging is sitting around 4.2V, which sounds fair for a 3.7V cell. It eventually stops blinking, going solid, but then the other LED turns RED. Disconnecting the battery reveals 0V across the pins.

So I might be up for a new battery, the PiJuice batteries look to be a similar arrangement (single cell with termistor pin) and may be a good upgrade anyway.

Next steps

I prefer the microphone on the right-hand side, so that’s one thing I’ll be looking at changing. The ribbon cable connects using small FPC connectors, so I’m thinking I might see if I can de-solder those and put a beefier 2.54″ KK-style connector in its place. This will require soldering some wire-wrap wire up to the pins, but the advantage is it’s a much easier connector to work with.

The break-out board on the left side is very simple, no components other than a momentary switch for detecting the microphone boom position, and pads to which the left speaker, microphone, mute LED and battery connect. I’ll still put the battery in the left side, so there’ll still be 5 wires running across the headband. It should be easier to interface with a new battery as well doing this.

I will also have to bring the buttons and switch out to the outside of the earcup, so I’ll probably use KK connectors for those too. The power switch is a through-hole part, so that should be easy.

I’ll probably replace the proprietary power connector with a barrel jack too. Not sure if these will charge from 5V, the original charger has a 6V output.

I think once I’ve got more hacker-friendly connectors onto this, I should be able to look at readying the new home for the electronics.